2001 Annual Grant Issue
Sara Goodwin and Kate Gray - Kast Grant Report
The Best of England

Our purpose in visiting England was to enhance our knowledge and understanding of English literature and history, particularly as it pertains to the Middle School English curriculum. This trip afforded us more than we could have imagined. Not only did we find the sites with direct relation to the texts and areas that we study in the Middle School helpful, but we also discovered that everywhere we turned, we bumped into more history, culture, and lifestyle that added to our overall understanding of the times, places, people, and texts that we study. Neither of us claims to be an expert after our trip, but we both feel much more secure in our curriculum and hope that the personal pictures and stories that we are adding to our classes will further enlighten and interest the students.

Our trip began on a very early Monday morning in London. After doing what we could to freshen up without falling asleep, we proceeded to a local eatery for coffee and scones. Feeling much rejuvenated by the caffeine, we purchased our tube tickets and set out for the Globe Theatre.

The new Globe, as it is called, was the dream of Sam Wanamaker who, like many of us who love Shakespeare, was "amazed to find that the only testimony to [Shakespeare's Globe] was a blackened bronze plaque on the wall of a brewery." It was his idea and inspiration that led to this memorial to Shakespeare. This place is truly awe-inspiring. As a simple theatre, its intimacy and practicality leads one to feel at home. In turn, to know that this place was recreated using as many of the techniques and much of the same materials that were used in Elizabethan times boggles the mind. The bricks are cut thinner to replicate slimmer Tudor bricks; the yard of the new Globe is covered with what is believed to be the same mixture of ash, clinker, sand, and hazel-nut shells that was used in the early 1600's. The 315 balusters of the theatre were turned on a pole lathe, as was the technique of the time, and the theatre flies a flag of Hercules carrying the globe when a play is in progress, as was the custom in Shakespeare's time.

Our tour of the new Globe consisted of a walk through the exhibitions, which displayed the building process that began as Wanamaker's dream in 1949 and was opened by Dame Judi Dench in February of 2000. We then proceeded to the main amphitheatre, which consisted of the stage, the canopy, the yard, the galleries, and the Lord's rooms. Unfortunately, the Inigo Jones Theatre, which represents the indoor theatre of Shakespeare's time, the Blackfriars, was being used at the time, so we could not see it.

Interestingly, much of the information used to recreate the stage of the Globe came from texts of plays and stage directions.

This seems to be the theme of the Globe and particularly the stage area whose different levels represent heaven, earth, and hell. For example, the elaborately painted canopy of the stage called the Heavens, was referred to by Lorenzo from Merchant of Venice when he says:

Look how the floor of heaven
Is thick inlaid with patens of bright gold

The stage itself was considered the earthly area where "humans play out their comedies and tragedies," and the area below is referred to as hell - from whence Hamlet's father is believed to have arisen.

Our second foray into the world of Shakespeare took place on Tuesday evening as we set out to actually see a play. Tuesday night was our only option because later in the week a Japanese company was performing plays in their native language.

Because we were not sure what our exact schedule would be once in London, we proceeded to the theatre, hats in hand, hopeful that we could somehow get tickets. While standing in the returns line, it began to rain - it is England after all. As adventurous as we both are, the prospect of standing in the Yard in the rain watching King Lear was daunting at best. Nevertheless, we remained hopeful and luckily enough, we purchased two tickets in the Lower Gallery and were able to view the performance from underneath the shelter of a roof.

The performance itself was wonderful; actors weaved in and out of the audience and could be seen hanging from poles and singing from the balcony. But, for us, the piece de resistance was seeing John McInery, Mercutio in Zeffirelli's Romeo and Juliet, play the fool. Not surprisingly, he acted much like an older Mercutio might have, had he not been killed so young.

We also had the opportunity to visit Westminster Abbey during our stay in London. Westminster was so very majestic. It is obviously a church constructed for the royals! Entrance into the Abbey was worth the very long wait in the rain. It is here that coronations have taken place throughout history. William the Conqueror was crowned here on Christmas Day in 1066. And it is where many former kings and queens are buried.

Perhaps the most inspirational part of our visit to the Abbey was Poets' Corner. In this corner many writers, actors, and musicians are honored; some are buried here, and others are simply memorialized. William Shakespeare is memorialized, and Geoffrey Chaucer is buried here. Other literary honorees include the Brontë sisters, Dickenson, Tennyson, Kipling, and Blake. Our time spent here was truly moving!

Before we knew it, it was time to leave London and begin the second part of our tour. We boarded the bus and departed for Hampton Court Palace, the former residence of King Henry VIII. We were in awe of this mammoth structure that houses one thousand rooms. But perhaps the most magnificent feature of the palace is its gardens, started by Charles II. It was interesting to learn that the gardens were previously used for jousting in medieval times.

Then we boarded the bus again. En route to Oxford we had the opportunity to drive through Runnymede, the site of the sealing of the Magna Carta. Oxford, also known as "The City of Dreaming Spires," is over a thousand years old and world renowned for its university. As we strolled through the city we enjoyed seeing some of the famous colleges and learning about traditions of university life. We felt like true academicians as we wandered these historical streets.

Our next stop was Stratford. Our visit to Stratford-upon-Avon did not inspire the same wonder and delight that the Globe had. Instead, we found the town of Stratford, while quaint, overcrowded, and we had difficulty finding Shakespeare's birthplace authentic for all of the tourist traps that lay around the site.

On the other hand, the history of Shakespeare and Stratford in and of itself made the trip worthwhile. Shakespeare's father, John, was a glover by trade and, according to all of the tour guides, seemed to do quite well for himself. Consequently, Shakespeare was afforded the best education to be had in Stratford at that time. In fact we saw the Guild Chapel, which was attached to an all-boys school that Shakespeare is rumored to have attended.

After Shakespeare finished grammar school, he apparently helped his father in the family business until Anne Hathaway became pregnant. Even though Hathaway came from a financially comfortable family, she brought only a small dowry with her due to the rushed circumstances of the marriage. By the way, she was twenty-six, and he, eighteen, and, contrary to popular belief, keeping her maiden name was quite common at the time and did not demonstrate that she was an independent, forward-thinking woman.

Despite his wife and three children, Shakespeare left for London - alone - in the late 1580's. Although he found his fame and glory in London, he never forgot Stratford, investing much of his newfound moneys in the town. In 1597 Shakespeare bought what is now called the New Place, a large Tudor residence. Shakespeare retired to New Place in 1613 and died there, reportedly on his birthday, April 23, 1616. Shakespeare left much of his property and wealth to his daughter Susanna and her husband, Dr. John Hall (Shakespeare's only son died in 1596). Sadly, Shakespeare's home was demolished in 1759, but the foundations have been preserved. Shakespeare was buried at Trinity Church. Unfortunately years later the Avon came too close to the church and washed out many of the remains that lay in the tombs below the church; Shakespeare's among them. Although it was somewhat disappointing to not be able to pay homage to the great poet, we did enjoy the rainy walk to the church anyway. Besides, it is somehow fitting that his body not lie in a dark tomb with velvet ropes marking where curious onlookers can stand in line to get a glimpse. Perhaps he truly rests in peace.

After we explored the town of Stratford, we set off to see Anne Hathaway's Cottage, the beautiful thatched house that was her birthplace. What a beautiful cottage!

The week was flying by too quickly! It was already Thursday and we were on our way to Wales. Our visit to Wales was brief but well worth it because of our stop at Tintern Abbey. The Cistercian monks founded this abbey in 1131 and the present remains date from the late 13th century. Given the age of the abbey we were amazed at its beauty and detail. The fact that the structure still stands is a testament to the great skills of the medieval designers and craftsmen.

The abbey and its setting in the River Wye valley have inspired several artists and writers. We were reminded of Wordsworth's words from "Lines." Wordsworth composed the following while visiting the banks of the Wye near the Tintern Abbey in 1798:

FIVE years have past; five summers, with the length
Of five long winters! and again I hear
These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs
With a soft inland murmur.--Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
That on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect
The landscape with the quiet of the sky.
The day is come when I again repose
Here, under this dark sycamore, and view
These plots of cottage-ground, these orchard-tufts,
Which at this season, with their unripe fruits,
Are clad in one green hue, and lose themselves
'Mid groves and copses. Once again I see
These hedge-rows, hardly hedge-rows, little lines
Of sportive wood run wild: these pastoral farms,
Green to the very door; and wreaths of smoke
Sent up, in silence, from among the trees!
With some uncertain notice, as might seem
Of vagrant dwellers in the houseless woods,
Or of some Hermit's cave, where by his fire
The Hermit sits alone.
These beauteous forms,
Through a long absence, have not been to me
As is a landscape to a blind man's eye:
But oft, in lonely rooms, and 'mid the din
Of towns and cities, I have owed to them
In hours of weariness, sensations sweet,
Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart;
And passing even into my purer mind,
With tranquil restoration.

The Roman Baths actually consist of the ruins of three different structures. The earliest is of a Celtic temple that dates back to approximately 60 AD. It is believed that when the Romans discovered this temple, they built an elaborate religious complex complete with healing baths. The Georgians were not interested in the old ruins and actually built on top of the temple and Roman baths. These were not discovered until the Victorian era when the city of Bath was transformed into a spa complete with hotels, saunas, and whirlpools.

Our foray into Bath Abbey was equally as inspiring as many of the other cathedrals and abbeys that we visited. The unique aspect of this cathedral is the east window, a stained glass window, which depicts fifty-six scenes from the life of Christ, and the fan vaulting that lines the ceiling. An interesting morsel is that it is estimated that 3,879 bodies of famous guests and residents who evidently did not benefit from the healing baths, lie beneath the stone floors.

The city of Wells was a pleasant evening trip that took us into what was referred to by our tour group as "a typical medieval city." Living up to its title, Wells is a delightful town with narrow cobblestone streets and very few square corners. This village was reminiscent of many that we visited throughout our trip, but we were told that the architecture was distinctly medieval. The Wells Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace were distinctive in this village. Wells Cathedral is a magnificent structure that dates back to the mid 14th century. Interestingly, this was built as a secular cathedral and, consequently, was not affected by the Dissolution.

The most breathtaking aspect of the cathedral is that the two towers were built on either side of the nave rather than head on, which was the norm at the time. As a result, the cathedral's tremendous breadth is breathtaking.

Other interesting aspects of the cathedral include the Penniless Porch, an area used by peasants in the 14th century and still used by beggars today, and the West Front, which incorporates 293 statues of angels, kings, knights, bishops, saints, and then rises to the twelve apostles, and finally the figure of Christ. We also got to see the clock, which has two faces: one on the exterior of the cathedral, and the other on the interior. This is an authentic medieval clock that still keeps time today. We were lucky to see the clock strike the hour and watch the knights jousting on the exterior face. We then moved on to the Bishop's Palace. Though it was too late to go inside, we were able to visit the exterior and see the moat that surrounds the castle. Actually, it was the swans in the moat that so enthralled us; they are trained to beg for food. When they are hungry, they pull on a rope, which rings a bell that signals they are hungry. Apparently, a young girl who lived in the palace in the 14th century trained the swans that she found. Legend has it that these swans have passed their knowledge down though the generations right up to the modern-day swans that we actually saw ring the bell.

Our next stop at Stonehenge, the center of one of the world's earliest cultures, was a most impressive site to see! We could not help but imagine ourselves walking among the ancient people who mapped the course of the sun and moon to build this magnificent monument.

This structure's purpose has baffled experts for centuries. Some possible theories suggest that the structure was used for religious purposes, as a calendar, or by extraterrestrials. Much of this hypothesizing is due to the fact that the major axis is aligned with the mid-summer sunrise. The structure is composed of two kinds of stones: Sarsen stones and Bluestones. Both of these stones were brought to the site from up to 200 miles away, which is truly awesome considering their immense size and the limited means the prehistoric people had to move them. We were struck by the size as well as the age of these stones. The prehistoric monument was constructed in three main stages. The earliest construction took place 5,050 years ago in 3050 BC when the circular ditch and bank (the henge) were made. Then in approximately 2500 BC a wooden structure was constructed at the center of the monument. Finally, from 2500 to 1500 BC the actual stone monument was arranged.

As we circled the stone structure we were reminded of the myths surrounding Stonehenge. In A Proud Taste for Scarlet and Miniver by E.L. Konigsburg, a piece of historical fiction read by seventh graders, Eleanor of Aquitaine was said to have visited this site. We recalled passages from the book. One passage reads, "Queen Eleanor loved to ride there and watch the light peek through the openings of the arches made by these stones. The tallest stones were set in an odd pattern of arches, the space between them was too narrow for a horse and rider to pass through" (page 151). Like Eleanor, we wondered, "how these stones got here. Surely these giants are not native to this flat pancake of land" (page 152).

Our excursion into the city of Battle was short, but simply catching a glimpse of the battleground where the future of English culture, religion, and (most importantly) language would be forever changed was worth the trip. Not surprisingly, there is little left of what existed in 1066 and the years of William the Conqueror's reign.

Sections of the current abbey date as far back as the mid 1300s including the impressive gatehouse, but much of it has been rebuilt, and rebuilt again throughout the years. However, the site of the abbey is the site of the original Battle Abbey that was erected by King William out of gratitude for his victory in the Battle of Hastings. Although better locations for the monastery lay to the west, William insisted that it be built on the site of the battle, and, more importantly, that the high altar stand where his rival Harold had fallen. Whether or not the altar was placed to William's liking is conjecture. In part he wished to appease the church and atone for the blood shed during his invasion of England; however, let us not forget that no mater how penitent, William named the site Battle Abbey lest anyone forget what took place there.

Another highlight to our trip was our visit to Canterbury, one of England's most charming cities. We were so excited about visiting Canterbury because of its cathedral and its connection to the tales written by Chaucer in the 14th century. Chaucer's tales inspired pilgrimages made to the city by the faithful who believed that the tomb of the martyr, St Thomas 'a Becket who was murdered in 1170, had miraculous powers. The city is the Christian center of England and it retains some of the flavor of a medieval walled city.

Canterbury is truly beautiful city with its cobbled lanes and streets. It was a delight to imagine pilgrims milling about in the streets or passing through the Christ Church Gate. Such imaginings were possible since the city still has traces of original fortifications, including remnants of the Roman defenses, medieval walls and the impressive fourteenth century West Gate.

Thomas Becket, the archbishop of Canterbury under Henry II, "the hooly blisful martyr," whose shrine is the object of the Canterbury pilgrims' journey, was martyred in 1170 at the request of Henry II. Historians believe that Henry II said something like "would that there were someone to rid me of this pesky priest." He was taken literally by four of his followers, and on December 29 they entered the cathedral and demanded to see the archbishop. It was then that Becket met his attackers in the cathedral. Following an argument, the four charged Becket with treason to the king. Despite Becket's denial, he was attacked and murdered. Becket's body was placed in the crypt, and a few days later began a series of miracles, which in 1173 resulted in Becket's canonization. Consequently, Canterbury quickly became the most popular and lucrative pilgrimage site in England. The shrine to Thomas Becket stood in the cathedral from 1220 to 1538 when it was destroyed by order of Henry VIII.

After our enriching visit to Canterbury, we journeyed to the beautiful Leeds Castle. The site of a manor of the Saxon Royal Family in the 9th century, Leeds Castle has been described as "The Loveliest Castle in the World." This typical medieval castle is built on two islands in the middle of a lake and set among 500 acres of landscaped parkland. Outside are a 14th century barbican and mill, a maze and grotto, water and woodland gardens.

Throughout its history Leeds Castle has been the home of six medieval Queens of England. It was awe-inspiring to be in a castle once occupied by those who lived in the Middle Ages.

We wrapped up our tour with dinner at "Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese" and a viewing of the Reduced Shakespeare Company performing The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (abridged). The restaurant is one of London's few remaining 17th century Chop houses that was rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666. It is said to have been frequented by such celebrities as Dr. Samuel Johnson and Charles Dickens.

The show is a delightful mockery of Shakespeare's drama, complete with an interactive voyage into Ophelia's psyche where the audience played her id, ego, and super ego; and a forty-five second coverage of all of Shakespeare's Histories as a football game entitled "pass the crown." We laughed the hardest during their segment on Romeo and Juliet. There is no doubt that our eighth graders would appreciate their mockery!

We undoubtedly achieved our goal during our visit to England: we enhanced our knowledge and understanding of English literature and history, as we explored the "Best of England." We are thankful for this opportunity to travel to England and look forward to incorporating our new knowledge to our seventh and eighth grade classes.